After a couple of successful classes live with the followers of my page Chilean Hands of facebook I'll take great responsibility to do something new but at the same time fast and that it was like most of my friends. the task is not easy! even though there are thousands of things for sharing my goal it was to do it with own pattern and with much support, another factor to consider and this is very important is that the project is somehow something that all can be put into use.
One of my biggest problems with the tissues (crochet and sticks) is that it has value. I don't like to fill me with jobs that even though they are always beautiful the useful meeting and that does not much conversation, therefore I thought all these points already exposed and TA RAAAN!
A set of flags was ideal!
I was slowly changing this original design and in the end were so
Getting there… Mandala inspired candy #crochet bunting . I'm up to photo editing in my super slow computer! Today is a very special day the what it would have been first anniversary of James' transplant. At this time the lungs were being transplanted, he never got to live another year after that, but he did live better quality time after it. I miss you my #sunnyboy #crochetbunting #patternwriting #disigner #crochetdesigner #socalleddesigner #chileanhands #colours #mandala #triangle #wheel #wheelofcolors #tassel
The color is extraordinary!
Thank you to all those who tested my employer am very grateful.
Now let's go to the grain and I invite them to read this pattern that has been worked for weeks and has taken me a long time design and correct to be able to finally post it.
Find this pattern free here and if you want to pay $2.00 you can download it in PDF format on this site. The pattern of payment includes 76 explanatory pictures! that you are very useful when they follow the pattern for the first time.
Candy mandala type flags
Mandala-inspired candy pennants
By Mariella Kennedy – Chilean Hands
* 250 g of different colors
* crochet of the number 4mm
* wool needle
* 10 beads – for tassel
* Dwarf point – pe
* chain stitch/s – c/s
* low – pb
* Point alto-pa
* High point triple – pat
* Point low relief ahead – pb embossed ahead
* Medium high point embossed ahead – WFP relief ahead
* High point embossed ahead – pa embossed ahead
* Three-point high relief ahead – pat embossed ahead
* 2 together closed high points – 2 pa closed together
* Low only in the back back – pb only in va
* 3 chains – 3 cs beak beak
As count points
To follow this pattern as well, the important thing is to be able to count the points and to do this you need to recognize them. On this picture you can see the points indicating the laps in front of each point. From right to left; the first point is for the chain, then the dwarf point that was made to close the turn at the top of the 3 c's of the beginning of the turn, after that are the 2 pa and finally 2 cs, separating the two groups of pa. As you can see the points they are slightly inclined to the right of each point, not directly on top of each one, it should take this into account when counting the points when it comes to skipping some or when working within the 2 c and the point on the left side tends to hide since we tend to skip it without wanting to.
We started using a magic ring; wrap the wool 2 times around 2 fingers leaving the end of the material to the tip of the toes and the ball of wool back of your hand (on the left)
* 2 c, pa, pad, beak; 3 c & pe at the base of th[usualmente hago el pe pasando por el penúltimo y ultimo punto antes de la c, en este caso el pa y pad, se siente mas estable el piquito haciéndolo asi ]e c, 2 c, pad, pa, pb *
Repeat from * to * twice more, join with pe
Tighten the magic ring. pull the inner part and then the tail.
Noose. Start with a pb standing at the top of any previous turn pb, by inserting the crochet by the middle ring and work the pb. As seen in, * 4 c, pb in the beak, 3 c, pb in the beak (doing a loop of 3 c, 4 c, pb – by inserting crochet through the middle of the triangulo.* repeat from * to * twice more, omitting the last pb, instead make a pe.) in first turn pb.
Start making 3 cs, after any "pb worked up to down", 1 c, 2pa, 1 c, (in the loop of 3 c) 3pa, 2 c, 3pa – as seen in 2pa, 1 c, 1 c, 1pa(y ael otro lado de the "pb trabajado hasta abajo") * 1pa, 1 c, 2pa, 1 c, (in the loop of 3 cs) 3 pa, 2 c, 3 pa) 1 c, 2pa, 1 c, 1 pa * repeat once more and join the last pa third c (or the chain from the top) of the beginning of the turn with a pe.
Noose. Begins at any corner of 2 c with a * medium high point – of-foot: only for this return – or you can make 2 c instead of this point, 3 c, WFP (in the same corner of 2 c), WFP in the next 7 points, pa triple taking the first (of 2 laps) the turn 2, WFP in the following 2 PB turn 3 pts , triple pa, worked on another lap of the turn 2 pb, (forming a V) WFP the next 7 STS, *
Repeat from * to * twice more, ending in a pe joining the last point to the first WFP's corner.
To make a WFP please check out page 6 (round 8) where he is explained with a guide to images.
Noose. Begins at any corner of 3 c with a * pma, WFP, 3 c, 2pma, 2pma in the space after the first post of the previous turn, skip 2 posts, 2pma, skip 2 posts, 2pma, pa taken ahead in the pat embossed taken ahead of the previous turn, WFP at the top of the pat embossed taken ahead of the return earlier (as if did behind this) embossing fp pa taken embossed for at the pat embossed front taken ahead of the previous turn, WFP in the following 3 pts, (having made 4 WFP after pa embossed taken ahead), skip the next 3 posts, 2pma, skip 2 posts, 2pma, skip 1 pole, 2pma *
Repeat from * to * twice more, joins a pe.
Noose. Starting at any corner of 3 c finance 3 chains or a * to skip high-point foot (only for the first time, then the repeat make only high point), 2 pa, 2cs, 3pa, (all this on the corner of 3 chains)[trabaja entre los postes no en el tope de ellos], 4 c, 4 pts, 2 pa closed together, 4 c, pa taken ahead in pa taken ahead of the previous turn relief embossing , skip 1 pt, pma the next 2 pts, pa taken ahead taken PA taken ahead of the previous round, 4 c, relief embossing skip 4 and 2 pa closed together, 4 c, skip 4 STS *
Repeat from * to * twice more, joins a pe.
In this round, we will make a double bobble or point double Pompom. To do this you will need to (make a loop, insert the crochet in place to make the point, in this case between Poles provide a loop, and pull it out through the two poles, Img – 2) X 2 give a last loop and pass through low 5 turns
Noose. Starting at any corner of 1 c, 2 c, pb or * 1 pb of foot ('from pie' only for the purpose of the first part of this return), 2 pb (all on the corner), pb in the 3 following points, 2 pb in the 4 c, do a pto double pompom after the second post pma of turn 5, 2pb to the other side of the 4 c's jump the next pto (2 closed pa together), in the 4 c 2pb, make a pto double pompom between two sets of WFP in the turn 5, about the 4 c, fp hdc on the CDPF 2pb of round 6, sc in between the hdc posts (pic-3), WFP relief taken ahead into the next pa embossed taken ahead , 2pb, pto pompom dual between the two groups of the turn 5, 2 pb, skip 2 pa WFP closed together, 2pb, pto pompom dual between the two groups of WFP in the turn 5, 2pb, pb in the next 3 STS *
Repeat from * to * twice more
Medium-high point of foot
Begins with a noose, and as it would be with any LDC, and insert where you are going to work the point, make a loop and pass it through tissue, give a loop passing under all the turns of the crochet single crochet leaving a return.
WFP is complete in this way with two turns in his bumper (front and back) and with the correct height.
Starts in any corner, the first floor of the corner, doing a pma's foot (or 2 c instead if you find easier), * 2pma at the next pto, WFP in the next 14 PTS, pa embossed taken ahead, skip 1 pt, pa taken ahead, embossed (not to mention the point that there is something hidden after your pa relief taken by the front – left arrow) WFP prox. 14 pts.*
Repeat from * to * twice more, on the last repetition get 13 instead of 14 LDCs, since the 14 th pto was performed at the beginning of the round, join with a pe.
Noose. Begins with a low standing in the tenth pto before any corner from LDC 2.
PB next 9 pts, * 2pb next pto (which will be the first 2 LDCs in a pto.), 1 c, 2 pb in the following pto, pb in the following 14 PTS., 1 c, WFP relief taken ahead, working both pa taken ahead in a single pto embossed. 1 c, pb the following 14 PTS *
Repeat from * to * twice more working only 4 pb instead of 14 in last section.
Begins with a single pb in will stand in the tenth pto counting backwards from the cadenetade the corner. (counting the chain as number 1)
Pb in the next 7 pts., * 2 only pb in goes on the next pto, only pb in goes (on the stitch of the previous round), 2 only pb in goes on the next pto, only pb in goes the following 33 PTS *
Repeat from * to * twice more, only pb in go, making only 25 pb only in goes instead of 33 on the last section of the return.
Making a tassel
* Wool that game with the wool used in round 1
* 1 bead of wood (7 mm – by tassel)
* piece of carton of 10 cm or lid of carton's similar (to wrap the wool)
* Wool needle
Wrap the wool around the cardboard surface about 30 times, cutting the wool at the height where it started so it is even.
Thread the beading in 20 cm of material and put the trinket in the middle of the wrapped wool; make a knot at the top of this side. Cut the other end of the tassel evenly and using material (which has the trinket) threading the needle with the and stitch close to one of the corners of your flag to crochet.
Having your banners giving you face – the right side works.
- -Using white wool, noose, 30 chains, * 2 pb – (pb in the will that I work in the chain and the first of the two worked in a pto from the turn 9, points are shown in the diagram) pe by – 35pts – (as shown by the arrows that make a corner) until you get to the next corner where you do pe only in the first of the 2 pb in va pb in the two following points *
Repeat from * to * until you have attached all the flags.
30 chains, chain 1, turn.
- –30 pb, * 2 pms (where the pb has worked on the previous line), pb all – 35pts – line until you get to the pb works pmas those *
Repeat from * to * until you get to the last flag, then 30 pb, 1 chain stitch, turn
- –30 pb, * 2 WFP closed together (woollen yarn on crochet, insert at one point, woollen yarn on crochet, turn through the pto forward, insert in next pto, woollen yarn on crochet, pass through the pto, turn – taking 4 laps in the crochet – woollen yarn on crochet and pass through of all laps) , pb until the next corner – 2 closed WFP together *
Repeat from * to *, until they have worked the last Pennant, then 30 pb, finish off
-each run will be working this way now –
- -starting with the flags giving the right face to you, pb at all guincha it with white finish.
- –using a different color in contrast well, I use purple, noose, 39 pb then * makes a point of shank, inserting your crochet 4 runs low where it should go (just under the run of dwarf points, showing a braid), working on it as you work anywhere under, the only difference is where you insert the crochet, 9 pb * repeat * to until the last pennant this worked , 30 pb and finish.
- -With a new contrasting color (I use lime green) noose, pb all guincha it, finally.
- (using a new color (I use strong pink) noose, 34 pb, * point pin 4 run below), 9 pb * repeat from * to *-will have a new point spike between the facts in the 5 round works up to cover all the flags, pb along of guincha her loose end. Finish.
- -Using white wool (again) makes low along the guincha it. End
Between sewing the ends of material and these list!
I hope you liked!
It has been exhausting but very compensator to see how this new work from my creation has liked, don't forget to buy the pattern here, so have step by step explanation with pictures and also help me to continue to do this as much more time, you'll be very grateful.
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